You call this a reduced-food dinner?!

After enjoying our earlier pre-dinner udon, we returned to the hotel for our "reduced-food" dinner course. We were certainly not expecting what we ended up with! The five courses we were given were:

- Appetisers (including jellyfish - in the tiny flower-shaped bowl on the right)
- Sashimi (including sea urchin, raw prawn, turban shell [栄螺/サザエ], flounder, scallops, yellowtail, sea bream)
- Beef and Matsutake mushroom (cooked ourselves over a flame)
- Miso soup
- Swiss roll and kiwi fruit

We were completely stuffed after this. All we could do was have a quick rest, and then go for a long soak in the ryokan's onsen. This was so clean and the indoor and outdoor baths were an absolutely perfect temperature (my guess 41 degrees).

           

Yamashita's famously tasty udon in Kotohira, Shikoku

The part of the Japanese road trip with my brother I was most looking forward to was the two-day drive through Shikoku, well known for its udon. I love udon and for the last couple of years - I think since watching the Japanese film 'Udon' - I've wanted to visit Shikoku and eat Sanuki udon.

We'd booked to stay in the well-known (and expensive) Kotohira Kadan, a top-class ryokan, and one of the ways of reducing the price (as you pay per person, not per room), and at the same time experiencing some of the local udon, was to take a "reduced-food" course. In addition to this reduced dinner at the ryokan, we were also each given a ticket (photo two) which could be exchanged for a bowl of udon at one of a couple of the local udon restaurants.

We went for 山下うどん (Yamashita Udon), which was about a ten-minute drive from the ryokan. And it was fantastic. The udon were quite chewy and obviously home-made (in a good way). Unlike our lunch earlier they aren't going for completely-smooth seemingly Sanuki-style udon, but instead the taste was much more preferable to me; I do like firm noodles!

The first photo shows my choice of the きつね (named for the sweetened fried tofu served on top of the udon) ready to eat once the sauce was poured on. The third photo shows the bottles of cold and hot sauce the staff brought to our table, along with the stub of fresh ginger they provided for us to grate for ourselves. Finally the last two photos show my brother's (meat topping) and my udon before the sauce was put on. Yum!

After finishing, my other half and I had enjoyed their udon so much that I ordered another きつね for us to share. It should be pointed out that these bowls of udon were considered their 'small' size (they also had 'large'), and cost just 350 yen each (about £2.30). Amazingly cheap and so very delicious!

         

Sitting overlooking Kotohira and Mt. Sanuki-Fuji with our feet in a hot foot bath. So very relaxing!

via tweetie

Our first Sanuki udon experience

On our way to Takamatsu, the largest city on the island of Shikoku, a quick check online (using my iPhone) and we had our lunch destination in 鶴丸 (pronounced 'tsurumaru'), a small restaurant in the centre of town near the station.

The owner was really friendly and recommended a few things to us, as I guess it was obvious we weren't local and didn't know our udon. First on the list was 'sashimi udon', served cold over rice with some onions and ginger. It's eaten sashimi-style, in that you eat it by first dipping it in soy sauce. This cost just 100 yen (65p), and I ordered seconds.

The udon was really smooth and surprisingly soft. It almost melts in the mouth! My other half remembered that in the film 'Udon' it was said that you shouldn't chew Sanuki udon, but instead let it just slide down. Not sure how true that is, and I didn't fancy trying it in case I choked, but I can see how it could be feasible as the noodles certainly don't require much chewing at all.

Shown next below is my hot ぶっかけうどん (served in slightly-watered-down sauce with meat, ginger and onions) which was very tasty, and after that my brother's かけうどん (served with meat in a thinner broth). The next two show my other half's choice of nabe (なべ) udon, which is cooked on a stove with meat and a different more watery sauce. After she'd finished the owner took the bowl away and brought it back full of flavoured rice, and with more meat and some egg added. We struggled to finish it all!

As we paid and left, the owner asked us if we'd had a good experience of udon, which was really nice. Definitely a good first experience.

           

Curry and beer!

Tonight we are fortunate enough to be able to stay right in the centre of the south part of Osaka (Namba). A friend of ours works at a hotel literally right off Dōtonbori so not only did we get a great room on the 14th floor for next to nothing, but this evening we were able to sample the food of a fantastic curry restaurant nearby.

The place is called Puru Nima, and to cut a long story short we all left there very full and very happy. The service was great; the guy (of Indian descent who spoke very capable Japanese) politely and patiently answered all of our million-and-one questions about the different types of curry on offer and the spiciness and contents of their menu. I enjoyed a Kingfisher beer - a lager which, despite being offered as an Indian beer, is in fact bottled in the UK - and we gobbled down our curries and naans with tremendous gusto.

Between us we had a prawn curry, a potato and aubergine curry and a minced chicken curry, accompanied with garlic, cheese and plain naans. Superb!

Journey of the creation of okonomiyaki

Our journey today took us from Kyoto to Osaka, and for lunch we decided to visit my other half's favourite okonomiyaki restaurant chain, 風月 (pronounced 'fugetsu'), for lunch. The photos show the stages of the cooking process, all done by the staff on the large heated pan embedded in the table in front of us. The items we chose were (left to right):

1) 風月焼き (pork, beef, squid, prawns)
2) 牛すじねぎモダーン (beef and onions with noodles)
3) とんぺい焼き (omelette with pork)

Photo 1: placing the mix of the pancakes on the pan (the omelette was brought to us)
Photo 2: adding fish flakes to both, and noodles on the middle one (half the omelette, gone!)
Photo 3: after flipping them over (and finishing consuming the omelette)
Photo 4: adding the final mayonnaise, sauce, and onions. Ready to eat! Go!

       

Can't beat scrambled eggs for breakfast

Not very traditionally Japanese, but lets face it who really wants grilled fish and rice for breakfast. This was courtesy of Shinshindo, a place tucked down a side street off the main Shijō street thoroughfare and dating back to 1913!

The buttered bread in particular was so soft, and they gave us a pot of jam to spread on it. I want another one now just thinking about it.

Our Japanese archery (弓道) experience in Kyoto

Before coming to Japan, I think my brother wanted to try his hand at Japanese archery (弓道) more than anything else; so that he could see just how it compares to his regular archery back in the UK.

We had searched on the internet and found 園山大弓場 (pronounced 'enzandaikyuujou') in Kyoto, next to the Yasaka Shrine in Gion, where one can go and just fire off a few arrows without going through all of the training required when one usually undertakes Japanese archery.

Upon arriving, we were confused to find that it looked just like a regular house. After getting closer we noticed that Monday was their day off; they were closed! Needless to say, my brother was crestfallen; he'd been looking forward to it for the entire trip. So we stood outside and pondered what we should do for a 'plan b'.

After a minute or so a woman in her 60s opened the door, and we apologised and explained that we'd come to shoot a few arrows. I'm not sure why, other than pure kindness, but she then invited us in to 'just look around'. No sooner were we inside than she laid a bow down and got some arrows out, explaining that she works the range with her son, who speaks English, and he takes Mondays off.

She spoke in a thick Kyoto dialect; so much so that I couldn't really understand a lot of what she said. My other half (who is Japanese) told me afterwards that, at times, even she couldn't comprehend all that was being said.

As you can see from the photos, there is a long bench seat inside, on which we were told to sit facing sideways (at 90˚ to the target) with our right leg curled up underneath us, and our left leg on the floor. The lady explained that arrows are shot in the posture of 'sitting on a horse' - a technique that dates back to bygone days when people shot their arrows from horseback. Once seated, we held our bow and faced left down the 14-metre range (which sloped slightly downwards, under the house) toward the targets.

The bows were very simple, consisting of just a single length of wood and a cord permanently attached to one end. In preparing them for our use she pulled the cord, bent the wood, and attached the cord to the opposite end of the bow, thus creating the bowed shape. She asked us to try out a couple of different strengths of bow, so that we could work out which suited us best. I think it was at that moment that we realised just how much effort and thought is involved in ensuring good technique and posture for Japanese archery. We were told to:

  1. Hold the bow with our left hand and bend the wrist;
  2. Place the arrow on top of finger and thumb of the left hand;
  3. Pinch the arrow onto the cord using two fingers and thumb of the right hand;
  4. Pull our right hand back all the way past our right ear;
  5. Move the bow up or down to line up with the target;
  6. Release and not move our arm or body afterwards;
  7. Watch... as our arrow skewed off and hit the wrong target (in my case at least).

Whilst the three of us fired off our 10 arrows, one at a time (and mostly laughed at the results), the lady explained to us that the place has been there over 150 years, since 1843 (the Edo period). She has apparently been running it herself for the last 30 years. She also pointed out the lists of peoples' names covering most of the wall space. They are the names of those who have managed to shoot three arrows (from ten provided) into the centre of the target; older names carved into wood, more recent names written on pieces of paper.

With all arrows shot, we inspected the targets. As I feared, I had fared the worst, managing only to hit a target that was not my own. The other two had fared better, managing to get one arrow in their respective targets. Overall it was an amazing experience, and well worth the 800 yen (£5) each that it had cost.

         

締めのラーメン / A ramen to finish

Tonight on the way back to our hotel after our evening meal, we passed Ippudo (一風堂) again and this time we couldn't resist. So we rather meanly sent my brother into Starbucks with his laptop to wait for us (as he very sensibly didn't want more food) while we popped in for our ramen fix. I went for the つけ麺 (cold noodles served separately from the hot soup - photo one) and the other half opted for the 豚骨ラーメン (creamy soup made from pork bones - photo two). I really loved mine, as the soup w as so meaty and delicious. Afterwards the staff topped my soup up with thinner bonito soup (to water it down) so I could then drink the remainder of it.

I had the chance to order 1.5x more noodles for the same price (850 yen; about £5.50) but I couldn't manage that this time having already eaten a meal; next time I will for sure. I've been told there are other branches of Ippudo in among other places Osaka and Kobe, both of which we're due to go in the next couple of days, so it could be sooner rather than later.

   

Xiǎolóngbāo

We took my brother to the Kyoto branch of one of our regularly-visited chain restaurants, Din Tai Fong, this evening to let him try some of the Taiwanese soup dumplings (小龍包) we love. Shown here are the steamed prawn gyoza (海老蒸し餃子 ) and a couple of the larger pork meat buns (肉まん) which we also ordered.